Archive for the ‘Koreatown’ Category
One of my Koreatown staples
This is my second time writing about Tosokchon, the 24-hour Korean restaurant located on E. 33rd Street between 5th and Madison Avenues. The last time mentioning them on this blog was towards the end of fall and what I thought was going to be my last naengmyeon of the season.
I’ve since dropped by a couple times with the most recent visit being last week after running an errand in Midtown. Those walks through Manhattan almost always end up in Koreatown for lunch.
What’s nice about this place is that it’s a block from the main Koreatown street and the sidewalks aren’t as packed.
Once seated, I put in my order and was presented with their standard banchan.
The kimchi and kkakdugi (radish kimchi) were still some of the best in the neighborhood.
One of the items I really enjoy here is soondae, a blood sausage made with beef and bean curd, and stuffed with glass noodles. They serve them with a spicy salt dip and come either as a small or large portion.
That is the small order! I love it because it’s a no frills dish and the flavor is so rich and savory. Also, that salt dip really does elevate the flavor.
I then ordered the yukgaejang kalguksu, which prompted the server to asked if I needed an apron. I was confident enough to decline the offer but, admittedly, did end up needing it.
Knife-cut noodles in a delicious broth with beef and vegetables. This was a massive bowl of noodle soup and something to keep in mind the next time roaming around the city looking for something on a chilly day.
The noodles were plentiful and it tasted amazing. I’m fairly confident Tosokchon is becoming my go-to in Koreatown.
What took me so long?
Anybody who has followed this blog knows I spend a lot of time in New York City’s Koreatown. There are several shops selling beauty products and K-Pop merchandise, and heaps of delicious restaurants. Everything from traditional Korean fare to modern high-end cuisine are available along these couple streets and one of these places, for whatever reason, I kept overlooking.
Five Senses is located near the corner of W. 32nd Street and 5th Avenue. Given how many trips I have made up and down that street, not sure why I’ve never dined here before.
As is usual with Korean restaurants, I was presented with a lovely array of banchan.
There was a tasty salad in the center with a variety of other treats, including an exceptional kimchi!
I got there at lunchtime and ordered one of their ogam sets, which gets you a main course and choice of stew or cold noodles. It was a pretty easy choice when I saw galbi bibimbap on the menu.
The bibimbap arrived sizzling with the most amazing scent emanating from the plate. Their short rib looked amazing (and there was a good amount piled on top of the rice, alongside the vegetables).
Every morsel was packed with flavor and loved every bite, especially those heaping spoonfulls with a little bit of everything.
As mentioned earlier, the set came with stew or cold noodles, and I went with a classic: kimchi jjigae.
Just like the bibimbap, it arrived to the table piping hot and it smelled magnificent. That hit of hot and tangy soup was the perfect touch between bites.
Now, what is a meal at a Korean restaurant without haemul pajeon (seafood pancake)?
As with the rest of the meal, this was fantastic! Freshly fried and deliciously crisp.
In the end, this lovely lunch continues to have me wondering: what took me so long?
A beautiful day for K-BBQ
It was the first day in New York City with clear skies and temperatures hitting the 60s (or, at least, the very high 50s). There was no doubt I was going to get out and enjoy the weather. After taking the train into Manhattan, I got out at Union Square and leisurely made my way uptown. There was a very good likelihood I would end up in Koreatown for lunch but it wasn’t clear which restaurant would be chosen.
Just as I was about to seek out one of the regular haunts, I saw the pastel-colored façade of Ahgassi Gopchang, the L.A. Koreatown sensation that recently set up shop in New York City. Located near the corner of 5th Avenue and 32nd Street, the restaurant is in the spot formerly occupied by Baekjeong (one of my favorite Korean barbecue spots in the city).
“Owners Bobby Kwak and Joseph Ko are moving Baekjeong down the street,” according to an article last month on Eater by Luke Fortney and Emma Orlow. “[Kwak] will reopen Baekjeong a block away as Baekjeong Black.”
As I approached the entrance, one of the staff opened the door and welcomed me. He asked if it was a party of one (the usual) and had me wait as they prepared my table. Once it was ready—after just a minute or two—it was quite the presentation.
It truly was one of the most impressive banchan spreads. White kimchi, eomuk bokkeum (stir-fried fishcakes), oi muchim (marinated cucumber), chives salad, side salad, marinated onions, and more.
Then, the dishware had this lovely floral pattern—to go with the exterior—along with a lovely menu.
Ahgassi Gopchang offers a number of barbecue packages for parties of two or more. For me, dining solo, I ordered a la carte, along with an option from their small plates selection.
However, after putting in my order, a runner brought over a steaming pot of gyeran-jjim, or steamed egg.
Ordering individual cuts, I went with two favorites: samgyeopsal (pork belly) and hanjeongsal (pork jowl). Now, it’s been a while since having proper Korean barbecue and just hearing that sizzle and seeing the smoke rise from the grill, I was overflowing with anticipation.
The server said they would cook half-and-half—half of the samgyeopsal and half of the hanjeongsal—and, once I was close to finishing those portions, he’ll put the rest on the grill. Very efficient!
Each piece was delicious and juicy, and the best part was all the ways to enjoy it! Having it plain is already good but there’s also adding a dash of salt, dipping it in ssamjang, incorporating it with the salad, wrapping it in the kimchi.
My most frequent method: take some of the salad, marinated onions, chives, and add ssamjang-dipped meat together in one bite—perfection.
If that wasn’t enough, I almost can’t go without ordering hameul pajeon, or seafood pancake.
This might be one of the best seafood pancakes I have ever enjoyed. It was served hot and crispy, not too thick, with every bite packed with flavor. Also, the dipping sauce was exceptional!
Needless to say, I’m coming back to Ahgassi Gopchang (while eating, I was already texting friends that we needed to come here on their next visits to the city).
Ending the day with jjajangmyeon
The day after yet another apartment showing, I decided to hit up Turnmill Bar on E. 27th Street to catch the Everton match. However, before that, I stopped by 787 Coffee, which is just down the block from the bar. While waiting for my coffee, I spotted something out of the corner of my eye: a printer! With all the applications from the apartment hunt, I was in desperate need of one.
I asked the barista about it and she explained it’s all a matter of emailing the address listed by the device and it will prompt you from there.
Let me just say, on top of my need for a printer, this is such a great innovation!
My documents and horchata latte got me up, just to be let down by the ensuing 0-0 draw.
It was still mid-afternoon, the sun was about to set, and didn’t know what else to do with the rest of the day. As usual, I started to wander and, of course, I found myself in Koreatown. As I made my way down that bustling section of W. 32nd Street, between Broadway and 5th Avenue, the image of jjajangmyeon drew my attention.
Shanghai Mong, which has been a staple of the area, tout themselves as “a fundamental place for dining in Koreatown.” In 2016, a new team took over the restaurant, which has set a focus on “providing authentic flavors of the Asian culture by carefully selecting the best ingredients.”
Even though I knew exactly what I was going to order, I couldn’t help look through the menu, which offers a wide variety of dishes. However, in the end, I got what I came for.
First came the banchan, kimchi and danmuji (pickled radish).
I eat danmuji with everything!
When I lived in the Philippines, there was a Korean store in my town that sold danmuji in these huge double packs and I would probably need to restock every couple weeks. The sight of those bright yellow slices got me so excited.
Then, the dish arrived.
Jjangmyeon is the quintessential Chinese-Korean dish. Noodles tossed in this dark sauce made from chunjang, or black bean paste. When done right, it is the most incredible savory flavor and, as I often fulfill my craving with the instant version, it is a rarity to sit down to a freshly-made bowl.
Something else that comes with ordering it fresh, that’s squishy sound that comes when mixing the noodles.
The lovely color was enticing and, then, that first mouthful: it was fantastic! Biting into the chewy noodles and slurping up the rest, it was the perfect end to the day.
Another hidden gem
While on my “staycation”, I had this restaurant on the list but, due to a change of schedule, I never got the chance to visit. However, while in the neighborhood at a later date, it came to mind and decided to drop by for lunch. Nubiani, located near the corner of 5th Avenue and W. 32nd Street, is situated on the third floor at 315 5th Avenue. Just a floor above Soju Haus, the restaurant is accessed through a nondescript lobby. Once the doors open up to the third floor, you’re in a whole other world.
I was seated at the bar area, which was very clean and modern, and had built-in grills for barbecue.
Looking over the menu, they have a wide selection of meals. Starting with their set meals for two, they also offer a number of bibimbap, noodles, and soup.
There was also a selection of appetizers. I picked a couple items, along with a bottle of soju.
The banchan arrived shortly after putting in my order and this was an extraordinary selection. The kimchi and spinach were delicious.
I was extra excited when I saw there was jangjorim, or soy sauce-braised beef and egg, among the sides.
This isn’t something you get at any Korean restaurant! The beef was tender and flavorful and probably could’ve enjoyed it as an entrée.
Then, there was also saeng sun jun, or battered fried fish.
These deliciously fried fish fillets were great!
Nubiani is yet another stop on the yukhoe tour of Koreatown. At this point, it goes without saying, when dining at a Korean restaurant, I’m starting with yukhoe, and this one was topped by a particularly beautiful egg yolk.
Such a shame to destroy the presentation but knowing there was an impending flavor explosion on the way made it all worth it—it was excellent!
Fresh beef, Korean pear, egg, and sesame oil is always such an amazing combination.
Then came the bibimbap and I’ve never had one like this before: uni bibimbap.
Another beautiful dish that needed to be destroyed and tossed with soy sauce and sesame oil.
Once mixed, put together a spoonful of the incredible sea urchin, greens, and rice—out of this world!
After polishing off one of the best lunches ever, I was surprised with a cup of soft serve for dessert.
315 5th Avenue is truly a hidden gem. Just looking from the ground floor, one would never know what culinary treasures are hidden on the upper floors. From the banchan to the dessert, every minute of my experience was exceptional.
According to the restaurant’s “About” page, the term “Nubiani” refers to meat grilled on direct heat. They note: “Nubiani is open with a goal of further developing the transcendent Korean culinary culture of grilling meat.”
Guess I have to come back for the barbecue!
Staycation eats (Part 3)
During my “staycation” towards the end of December, while setting out one morning, I realized one of the restaurants on my list was mere steps from the hotel. It was a quiet, chilly morning and there was, literally, a sign.
Moono by Chef Hoyoung Kim, the individual behind Michelin-starred Jua, is located on E. 32nd Street, between Madison Avenue and Park Avenue S. After seeing the sign, I knew I was going to be enjoying a meal there within the coming days.
One night, after a long day out in the city with a friend, I was making my way back to the hotel and decided to drop in to inquire about dinner. Making my way into the restaurant, it was an impressive sight. Incidentally, the restaurant’s site notes: “Taking its name from the Korean word for ‘gateway,’ Moono symbolizes a literal ‘door’ to another world and represents a passage to diverse cultures.”
I approached the host, who was very accommodating, and asked if it would be possible to get a table for one without a reservation. Estimating a time around 6:00 p.m., they let me know a seat should be possible and explained it would be at their communal table. They then offered to take me over to see what the table looked like.
What a great first impression and that alone already got me even more excited to eat here.
The next evening, I stopped a bit earlier than scheduled. The same person was at the host station and recognized me. Offering a warm greeting, they walked me right to the communal table they had shown me the night before.
The food menu is divided into ssam, twigim, seafood/meat, hot pot, sotbap, noodles, and dessert. The server said between two or three items would be good for a solo diner; although, it depended on what was ordered.
After deciding on my entrees, I also picked a drink for the evening: won soju.
A premium soju by K-Pop artist Jay Park, the bottle looked cool and it was served with a unique shot glass. Described as having a “strong rice flavor with a spicy kick in the end,” after that first shot, it was clear the description was accurate and this was a very unique soju (and potent).
Before any of the food arrived, a welcome soup was brought to the table.
A simple egg in bone broth. This was delicious. A very delicate soup that definitely get my appetite ready for dinner.
As with other Korean restaurants that serve yukhoe, or Korean beef tartare, I had to order it! This was brought to the table alongside a plate of fresh kimchi.
I mixed the yukhoe thoroughly and was so excited to take that first bite. Those ever-familiar savory notes that I love about the dish came through so well.
Additionally, the kimchi was indeed fresh and was a great accompaniment for dinner.
A sentimental item for me was featured on the menu: mung bean pancake.
These pancakes were my father’s favorite treats whenever visiting Gwangjang Market in Seoul. The old ladies manning the flat tops filled with oil and pancakes were always so friendly and quick serving their freshly-fried snacks.
The pancakes at Moono were just as good, with every bite bringing me right back to those aisles of delicious food stalls. Plus, the jangajji, or pickled vegetables, on the side helped cut through the fried richness.
I knew I wanted noodles with my meal and, once I saw foie gras noodles, that was going to be a part of dinner.
My love for foie gras is eternal and couldn’t more grateful that the ban was overturned.
This was a massive bowl of noodles with a lovely pile of foie gras gathered right in the middle. Each of these delicate little morsels packed quite a punch.
The chewy noodles and the rich broth were a great close to what was quite a sumptuous dinner. I will definitely come back to try the other amazing items on the menu.
Staycation eats (Part 2)
During my “staycation” in Midtown South, the next destination was only a few blocks down from where I was staying. Atoboy, located near the corner of E. 28th Street and Park Avenue S, is a restaurant that has been on my list for a while. According to the ‘About’ page on the restaurant’s website: “Borrowing its name from the ancient Korean word ‘Ato’ meaning gift, Atoboy first opened its doors in July of 2016.”
Making my way down Park Avenue and turning left on 28th, I literally missed the restaurant and had to check if I was on the correct street. While backtracking, I found the place and made my way inside. As the Michelin Guide notes about Atoboy: “The space, which leans grungy-chic.”
I arrived shortly after opening and managed to get seated right away. It was a very welcoming atmosphere. While being walked to my table, all available staff in proximity stopped to offer a greeting.
Once at the table, I was presented with their menus.
A server approached and asked if it was my first time, and they explained Atoboy offers a four-course prix-fixe menu. They gave me a moment to look over everything and, once decided,I put in my order, along with a glass of Juvé y Camps, a cava brut from Catalonia.
The meal began with the sea urchin.
The server noted it came as a “snack” with every order. Comprised of sea urchin (uni), steamed egg, seaweed, and quinoa, the dish was beautifully presented with the bright orange uni placed atop the dark seaweed.
This was so delicious. Every bite was rich and packed with savory flavor.
Once finished, the server asked what I thought about the dish, I said it was fantastic. They explained, the dish was once offered as a regular entrée but the chef decided that everyone should have the chance to try it.
Based on my history, if there is yukhoe (Korean beef tartare) on the menu, I’m ordering it, and among their options for the first course was a beef tartare.
Served with oyster, tarragon, and kolhrabi, this was very different from any yukhoe I’ve had before. The well-seasoned beef tartare was still apparent with some crunchy bits that gave the dish such an amazing texture.
That was followed by juk, or porridge.
Made with maitake mushrooms and wild sesame; the fragrance of the dish was unbelievable! Then, that first spoonful was so good. The hot porridge and the chewy mushrooms were perfect for the chilly evening.
I enjoyed it until I was scraping the bottom for the last of it.
For the main course, I ordered the pork belly, which was served atop mung beans and garnished with buchu (Asian chives) and watercress.
The main course also arrived with banchan—kimchi apples and cucumber—and a bowl of their seasonal rice.
The banchan was fresh and crunchy, and brightened up the meal.
The pork belly itself was seasoned so well and was melt-in-your-mouth tender. Every bite of pork, greens, and mung beans filled my mouth with an amazing combination of flavors and textures, which was complemented by bites of banchan in between.
I wish I had room for dessert but that may have to wait for the next visit.
On top of the amazing food, the excellent service is something that really elevates Atoboy, which only encourages one to keep coming back.
Staycation eats (Part 1)
As someone who frequents New York City’s Koreatown, it’s no surprise that when a new restaurant opens up, it eventually appears on my social media news feed. Now, while on a “staycation,” I found myself mere blocks from Hojokban, which opened last month and is located along Madison Avenue, between E. 30th and E. 31st Streets. I was definitely going to take the opportunity to give it a try.
Seeing all the amazing dishes from those posting their visits online and with the tagline “Korean soul food,” there’s a reason this was the first stop on my escape within the city.
I arrived just after opening and there was already a good number of diners seated. I asked if they had availability for one and I got a seat at the bar.
The menu has a number of starters, several dishes that appear to be ideal for sharing, and a bountiful cocktail menu. As a solo diner, I went for their appetizers just to get a bit of a range in flavors.
However, first: soju!
I took a particular liking to the glass served with the soju. It wasn’t the typical shot glass one usually gets; it felt a bit elevated.
Then, the banchan was quickly brought to the table.
Kimchi and sweet potatoes, which, as with the Korean custom, the bartender suggested eating them together. As she explained, “You get the sweet and sour together.”
While I have enjoyed the combination before, this was exceptional. The kimchi wasn’t too sour or spicy, while the potatoes were hitting with the sweetness.
Also, as with banchan anywhere, it’s unlimited refills (I had about three).
The first of the dishes to arrive was a Hojokban signature and one I heard was a “must order,” the truffle potato pancake.
This was a beautiful ring of crispy Korean potato pancakes with truffle mayonnaise and parmesan cheese.
The truffle was immediately apparent with that first whiff and picking up the first piece, the feel of the firm crunch proved to be very enticing.
The flavors were out of this world, the crispness of each pancake was fantastic, and I probably could have consumed another plate of it.
The next dish I ordered is somewhat predictable considering how much I have expressed my love for yukhoe, Korean beef tartare, and Hojokban has one on their menu as well.
Seasoned with a house soy sauce and served alongside crispy lotus root chips, this was a beautiful sight as it was brought to the bar.
Grabbed a chip and scooped up as much of it as possible and took that first incredible bite.
There is really something special with the way beef tartare is prepared at Korean restaurants. The freshness comes through right away, then a delicious savory quality floods your taste buds. Another home run with the yukhoe!
Plus, the lotus chips were fantastic vehicles for the beef.
After finishing my food and polishing off the bottle of soju, which the bartender remarked, “You finished that on your own?” I asked to see the cocktail menu one more time.
My eyes went right to the rice punch.
Makkeoli (Korean rice wine), sikhye (rice punch), whiskey, and ginger syrup makes for a refreshing and slightly sweet drink.
It was the perfect conclusion to what was quite an incredible meal.
My second visit here
It was shortly after moving back to the New York City metropolitan area last year and I had already made quite a few trips into Koreatown. After hitting up multiple restaurants along the main strip of 32nd street between 5th Avenue and Broadway, I decided to try one of the spots located on an upper floor—a similar setup to cities like Seoul where not every business is situated on the ground level and one must look up to find a specific store or restaurant.
Jongro BBQ is on the second floor of a nondescript building. If you’re browsing windows, you’ll see a sign for the restaurant through the glass doors of a fairly ordinary lobby. Walk by the doorman sitting behind his desk—offer a greeting—and the elevators are right there to take you up.
In contrast to the lobby, once the doors open up to the second floor, you are greeted by an expansive restaurant.
After the host walked me passed several large tables, all equipped with barbecue grills, I was seated at one of the said tables.
Given the name and how everything is situated, their specialty is barbecue—and Korean barbecue is one of the greatest cuisines of all time. However, on this first visit, I was looking for something a bit more warm (as if sitting in front of a grill wasn’t warm enough).
Forgoing barbecue, the grill remained closed and they brought over the banchan.
First and foremost, the kimchi is great. It’s always the first bite whenever sitting down to a meal at a Korean restaurant. However, I’m a huge fan of the macaroni salad (always the first one that needs a refill).
Now, that first bite of banchan is always accompanied by soju.
It truly is the best way to whet the palate.
One of my favorite dishes (and one I have featured in other blogs about Korean restaurants) is haemul pajeon (Korean style seafood pancake). I’ve tried so many of these and am never disappointed.
The light batter used to make the pajeon is fantastic. On top of that, throw in all the tasty seafood, every bite is worth savoring.
Next, the meal that was going to warm me up on that chilly December day arrived to the table in a massive cauldron: yukgaejang (spicy beef soup).
This definitely had the desired effect—the yukgaejang was served hot with a good amount of spice. Additionally, there is nothing more satisfying than, after slurping up most of the meat, tossing in some rice and polishing off that bowl of satisfaction.
Now, I’m not sure why it took me so long to return—almost an entire year—but it was another one of those let-me-try-something-else days and I knew there was still more of the menu to explore.
Much like pajeon, another regular order (at least within the past year) has been yukhoe (Korean steak tartare).
The server brought it over on a tray and proceeded to mix everything together. The exceptionally savory quality and the chilled temperature makes this dish immensely special—it is in a league of its own. After that first bite, you keep coming back for more!
Also, there were two dipping sauces that added even more depth of flavor.
Then, I ordered tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), which they offer with gimmari (crispy seaweed rolls).
I’m not sure when I first fell in love with gimmari but it is forever one of my favorite fried snacks. The crispy seaweed is heavenly and it’s filled with delicious springy noodles.
The best part: dip them in the tteokboki sauce and it’s a perfect bite.
The tteokbokki itself—a generous mix of chewy rice cakes and tasty fish cake slices—was great. That perfect sweet and spicy combination one expects from the classic Korean dish comes through nicely.
Honestly, I probably should have ordered a bowl of rice to sop up the rest of the delicious sauce.
After exploring the menu twice, I’m definitely doing barbecue on the third visit!
It was the jjajangmyeon
There is a restaurant on W. 35th Street, between 5th and 6th Avenue, that I have been looking forward to trying but it hasn’t happened yet. On the first attempt, I got there shortly after opening and they were already busy. I asked if they had space for a party of one and it was about a 40-minute wait.
I ended up grabbing lunch next door.
I tried it again recently. It was mid-afternoon (after the lunch rush and well before dinner hours) but, as I approached the restaurant, there were people waiting on the bench outside. I knew it wasn’t going to be the day.
Given that I had already tried the place directly next door, I started scrolling through Google Maps for an alternate location and I saw pictures of food from another place just a few steps from the same restaurant, Hyo Dong Gak, a fusion Korean-Chinese restaurant.
The owners, a husband and wife duo, offer “recipes passed down from one generation to another” with an aim of creating “a memorable dining experience by combining locally sourced ingredients with highest quality Korean ingredients”.
Looking through the menu, the first item that jumped out at me was—one of my favorite dishes—jjajangmyeon.
Described merely as “noodles with brown sauce”, the dish is the quintessential Chinese-Korean fusion dish. Springy and chewy noodles served with a dark sauce made from black soybeans.
It is difficult to describe the taste but it is savory and incredibly delicious.
However, the magic begins once everything is mixed together.
It was so good!
Also, a testament to how friendly the staff are, before digging in, I was busy updating social media when a server walked passed my table wearing a big smile and tells me to start eating and stop messing with my phone.
In addition to the noodles, I also got an order of their chicken wings.
While they do offer a spicy variety, unfortunately, it wasn’t available that day and I went with the original wings.
The wings were fried perfectly. Crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside—I can’t wait to try the spicy version.
There is still so much more to try from their very diverse menu… probably enough for a follow up!
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