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Binondo… in Manhattan’s Chinatown

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My first blog in months. It’s been hectic with my current job. No time to sit down and write, and, when there was time, I was just too exhausted. Now, work has slowed down a bit and I have time to do other things besides thinking about new menu items and cocktail ingredients. There is a large cache of photos on my phone and laptop that may soon see the light of day and it’s all thanks to Binondo, a Filipino restaurant in New York City’s Chinatown, brought to the public by the folks behind Kabisera. The experience—both the food and service—needed to be discussed!

Named for the world’s first Chinatown, which is said to have been first established in Manila in 1594, the restaurant brings a “bold fusion of Pinoy and Chinese flavors” to New York City.

I started hearing buzz early along when they first announced their opening. Shortly after, my “For You Page” had some videos of people documenting their visits, along with friends saying they wanted to go. Luckily, the day came when I ventured into Chinatown and stopped in for lunch.

Before even stepping inside, I made eye contact with staff and was greeted with a smile before even saying anything. I was quickly guided over to a table and was equipped with everything to start a great lunch.

While scouring over the menu, of course, I had to look around the room. There’s a sleek bar situated along the right-hand side of the room adorned by a colorful jeepney at the end; a view of the kitchen towards the rear; and, directly in front of me, something that screamed “Filipino restaurant”: a sink.

In a complete “If You Know, You Know” moment, the sight of that sink was assurance that this was going to be some legitimate Pinoy fare. After my decade-long stint in Bacolod City, no matter the place—be it Jollibee or a sit-down restaurant—you always knew, if the opportunity to eat with your hands arose, you know where to go before and after enjoying the meal.

Going back to the menu and, after the painstaking process of deciding what to eat, I made up my mind and was quickly greeted with some complimentary treats.

Spicy peanuts and dilis (crispy anchovies) were the first thing to arrive at the table. So simple but so nostalgic. The dilis were especially addicting! They had a great crunch and were cooked to perfection—no fishiness, just fried goodness. The peanut had a nice flavor and, together, it’s magic.

A bowl of egg drop soup was also delivered.

I drank this right up—no spoon necessary! It’s not the egg drop soup you get from your local Chinese takeaway, the one with the bright yellow broth and floating egg whites. No hate to that but this one had a great depth of flavor and, if they sold it like a Chinese takeout spot, I’m getting a quart!

Something that has somewhat become a barometer for Filipino restaurants for me has been the sago’t gulaman. A sweet and refreshing drink with lots of tasty jellies and, thus far in my sporadic tour of Filipino establishments, it’s always been a home run.

It’s that time of year—July 4th Weekend, American Independence Day, Filipino-American Friendship Day—it’s hot out! Sago’t gulaman is always such a great relief for those sweltering days and Binondo makes a good one; it’s also very simple. This blog has featured other restaurants, while good, are a bit flashy in presentation. This one is done just right.

My appetizer was, what the menu called, Mayon Volcano.

Camaron rebosado coated in a spicy mayonnaise? When this was brought to the table—in a martini glass—the smell from the spice hits you right away. I literally stopped, leaned in, and took a whiff before taking that first bite because it was such a rich (and complicated) scent.

This dish was so good. First, the shrimp was plump and delectable; second, the spice is not jarring but you do feel it—a flavorful heat.

My main course was the most difficult part because there are so many classics to choose from. Personally, kaldereta, kare-kare, and Bicol express are all among my favorite Filipino dishes—and Binondo has them all! So, I scoped out their weekly specials list and saw a very sentimental dish, one my Dad used to cook all the time: beef ampalaya (beef with bitter melon/bitter gourd)..

I have never seen a more beautifully presented beef ampalaya. For me, it’s one of those homestyle dishes that usually just arrives on a platter, you take a heaping spoonful to place next to your rice, and dig in.

First impression alone, the beef was glistening and looked so appetizing.

That first spoonful, I made sure to get a little bit of everything, and I will say, the delicious sauce the dish is tossed in made up most of that first taste, somehow, overpowering that addicting bitterness of the ampalaya. However, as you keep digging into the dish, you taste more and more of the bitter melon and that familiarity all comes rushing back.

Now, at this point, I still have about half the dish left and running low on rice. I told myself I didn’t need more rice (I wanted dessert afterwards) but, when the question was asked, this “extra rice” boy took a moment and went for it—how else am I going to sop up the rest of the gravy from the dish?

It capped off a lovely lunch. Everything was fantastic!

Unknowingly, I was the last person there after the lunch rush and got to chat with some of the staff. I promised I would come back because I wanted dessert and to explore more of the menu.

Korean-Chinese classics done right

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I have walked by Octo, located at 5th Avenue and E. 33rd Street—a block from the Empire State Building—several times, primarily because I tend to frequent a spot just across the street. The name came to mind after finding out they were recently added to The Michelin Guide last November. They note, the place is “New York’s oldest Korean barbecue restaurant” and that it “channels a distinctive Korean-Chinese fusion cuisine.”

The restaurant’s website points out the word “octo” means “good soil” in both Korean and Chinese.

Their “About” page reads: “We choose this name with the aspiration that, much like the nurturing soil that fosters new life, we can play a vital role in the journey of our team members and guests, planting the seeds of growth and flourishing together from the moment they step into our restaurant.”

On, yet, another day wandering around, looking for a place to eat, I remembered Octo and decided to stop by. I inadvertently visited close to the end of lunch service, so, belated apologies to the floor staff if I kept them a little longer than normal.

Stepping inside, it is a large space, very modern, with interesting decorative trinkets around the room. The menus are encased in these chic binders and the chopsticks were particularly lovely.

After scanning the menu, I knew the meal had to begin with their crispy shrimp mini sandwiches (menbosha). I am obsessed with shrimp toast and, whenever it’s on the menu, I have to give it a try. Once these were placed on the table, it was clear, these were going to be exceptional.

They were served hot and fresh, and indeed crispy. The minced shrimp filling was excellent and could have thrown back several more plates!

Moving on, the lunch menu includes several set meals but one stood out for me immediately: The Seoul Set. Jjajangmyeon and tangsuyuk? Say no more! The ultimate comfort meal!

Accompanied by a couple servings of banchan (side dishes), the set also includes some of their spicy poached dumplings.

Soft and juicy; filled with pork and celery, topped with peanuts; and served in a black vinegar and spicy sauce—these were fantastic! Octo does serve these as a small plate and, if you’re into dumplings, it’s definitely a consideration as a starter.

The next dish: tangsuyuk (sweet and sour pork).

The crispy pork served in a rich sweet and sour sauce hit all the right notes! I could pour that sauce on anything and it would be great. I loved biting into the perfectly-fried pork and getting a nice zip from the sauce it is slathered in, along with a crunch from the toppings.

Saved the best for last—one of my favorite dishes of all time—jjajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce)

Just looking at it, the color on the black bean sauce was amazing. I was beyond excited to give it a try but, first, a noodle pull…

Best jjajangmyeon in the city! Delicious and savory, the noodles had the right amount of chew, and I just want more!

There’s a very likely chance I’ll be coming back to try their dinner menu.

A Long Island diner

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One weekend, I went on a random outing to Long Island with close friends. It was my first trip on the Long Island Railroad (LIRR) but probably won’t be my last. During the days of commuting through Pennsylvania Station via New Jersey Transit, while waiting for my train, I would always gaze at the LIRR departure signs, seeing familiar town names I had heard on the news, and wondered if I would ever have a reason to take a train in that direction.

Today was the day.

After arriving in Great Neck (which is preceded by Little Neck), we took a longer than necessary walk around to take care of some business and, once finished, it was time for lunch.

Just about a block from the train station, located at the corner of Bond Street and Grace Avenue, is Great Neck Diner. Established in 2010, they describe themselves as “your town diner” with “an expansive menu of delicious choices for any time of day or night, skillfully and lovingly prepared, and at a great value.”

Growing up in New Jersey, diners are staple for every community and, first impressions of this place, it had that familiar vibe.

While looking over the menu and agonizing between brunch and lunch, the only item that I was sure about was an egg cream.

A New York classic. A drink composed of milk, carbonated water, and flavored syrup (I went with vanilla), it’s sweet, effervescent, and delicious. I really had to keep my sips in check or that would have gone down in one gulp.

Another item that caught my eye were the potato latkes.

One order included two large potato pancakes served with applesauce and sour cream.

Crisp on the outside, warm and soft on the inside, with great textures and great flavor. Those are, for sure, a favorite from this diner!

For my main course, it was a real struggle but, in the end, I went with a club sandwich. They had several options and I chose the grilled chicken.

Their triple-decker club sandwich, which came with coleslaw, pickle, and choice of potato (waffle fries all the way), was massive; and looked fantastic.

Picked one part up and the layering was just so appetizing.

Excellent!

All around, it was a great diner experience. A lot of well done classics and, if ever in the neighborhood again, the chances are very likely another visit will be in store.

Written by Paulo Loreto

November 22, 2024 at 7:15 AM

Gourmet Indian pizza

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After heading into Manhattan for some wandering, it was time to grab dinner. Walking east from Union Square, it was a lot of scrolling through Google Maps to see what was around and gauging the mood of the evening. Then, I recalled a video shared on Instagram of a place serving pizzas with an Indian twist. Located at the corner of 1st Avenue and E. 13th Street is The Onion Tree Pizza Co., which “offers a tantalizing fusion of Italian and Indian flavors.”

Coming in without reservations, the host staff were kind enough to seat us and offer a decent amount of time to enjoy our meal.

Needless to say, the menu is an adventure! “Our menu features a tantalizing array of pizzas inspired by both Italian and Indian flavors,” their website notes. “From traditional Napoletana and Romana styles to inventive Indian-influenced creations, each pizza is a culinary masterpiece.”

To start the evening, I ordered their Sassy Lassi, a spiked mango lassi.

This was an incredible drink! All the refreshing elements of a mango lassi plus, if you love cardamom, the spices definitely come through!

One of the most difficult aspects was narrowing down what exactly to order (clearly, this means multiple trips back will be necessary). Although, for me, I love lotus root chips and, after seeing they had them on the menu, it helped make a decision on a starter.

Dusted with chaat masala and served with an array of chutneys, each bite was unique and delicious.

When it came to choosing a pizza, as a first timer, it seemed easy to go with the chicken tikka masala. Before leaving the table, the server asked for a style preference: Napoletana or Romana. This evening, went with Romana style, which was described as thin, crispy, and square-shaped.

This pizza arrived at the table and it was quite the sight!

Each slice was piled high with coriander, fried chilies, and onions; and it smelled fantastic!

An array of different flavors and all of it delicious. Truly, a pizza like no other—and they still have more unique options. Saag paneer is one of my favorite Indian dishes and they have one as a pizza!

Filipino eats in the Lower East Side

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While wandering around the Lower East Side, rummaging through a flea market and dropping by a little Filipino grocery store for some treats, it was well-past lunchtime and I had no idea where to go. I asked myself, “Should I go back towards Union Square? Walk further east? Walk down?” In the end, I continued down Avenue A and recalled a spot I had been meaning to try for ages. Not quite sure what has taken me so long to try Mama Fina’s, located between E. 10th and 11th Streets, but today was the day!

Stepping inside, you are immediately greeted by their massive menu. A selection of sisig, Filipino breakfast (which is served all day), a la carte options, desserts—it was a lot! Guests are requested to put in their order at the front, with the food later served to the table. Being that it was my first time, I went with a couple favorites.

The first item to arrive was the sago gulaman, a traditional Filipino beverage made with a brown sugar syrup and tapioca pearls. However, this one was like none I had ever seen before.

First, it was massive, and, when I had heard shaved ice being made earlier, it was apparently going into my sago gulaman. The drink had a delightful sweetness to it, and the sago was nice and chewy. I’m accustomed to the little cup that’s served in the Philippines and am definitely partial to the version served here.

Then, an option listed on their vegetables section and one of my favorite Filipino dishes of all time: Bicol express. 

A delicious entrée consisting of pork, shrimp paste, and peppers served in coconut milk-based sauce. I was warned up front that it was spicy—YES! The best thing about Bicol express is the heat.

Getting a bite with the shredded pork, sliced peppers, and the sauce hit flavor notes of sweet, spicy, and savory. Then, put it on top of rice… my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Next was the lechon kawali.

Deep-fried pork belly is always amazing and it’s especially delicious at Mama Fina’s. The crispy skin and tender meat is an amazing texture bomb, and dipped in the accompanying sauce—perfection.

By the end of the meal, I was STUFFED and had no room for dessert—I desperately want to try their halo-halo. Although, in addition, the dessert menu also lists coffee leche flan, ube cheesecake, and sylvanas. Clearly, several more trips will be necessary in order to check off my entire wishlist.

Capping off a long day in Palermo

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The first day of a short holiday. The day started with taking the train to Koreatown, where I had lunch and a couple drinks. Afterwards (after remembering it was Wednesday), wandered up to Times Square and stopped into Dave & Buster’s to partake in half-price games. Amid the merriment, texted a friend in Hell’s Kitchen to proceed with a few more drinks. We later met up and enjoyed some fun conversation over margaritas.

Once we parted ways, dropped by a nearby bar and, after throwing a few more back, saw there was an Argentinian restaurant just around the corner. Palermo Argentinian Bistro, located near the corner of 9th Avenue and W. 46th Street, was going to be where the day would conclude.

The restaurant is located in a brownstone that was built in 1894 and the friendly greeter, stationed in the front patio, escorted me to a small table on the first floor, where I got my first glance of their enticing menu.

The restaurant offers a wide array of appetizers and, of course, a lot of meat. According to their website: “The bi-level restaurant brings traditional Argentinian barbecue centering on prime steaks sourced from the nearby century-old Piccinini Brothers butcher shop.”

After deciding on dinner, I was presented with a lovely bread basket.

The bread options were fantastic! I would come back just for a drink and some of this bread!

However, it wasn’t long after when my appetizer showed up and the beef empanadas arrived at the table.

Filled with beef, hard boiled eggs, olives, scallions, cumin, and served with a side of llajua, a kind of chili sauce, these were great. The outside was thin with a great crunch—don’t think I’ve ever had one this crispy—and every bite was delectable.

My main course was then presented and it was quite the sight: A 12oz NY Strip with a side of fries.

The most striking item on the plate were the roasted red peppers resting atop the beautiful steak. Served with chimichurri and a salsa criolla on the side, the variety of toppings made each bite a unique flavor experience. Stacking the steak with a bit of chimichurri, pepper, and garlic was especially enjoyable.

At this point, I still wasn’t done and had to get dessert. The server expertly explained the entire menu and, when he said flan, it was a done deal.

It’s been a while since the last time I’ve had flan and this was a great end to the meal—and the day. The fantastic custard was served atop an incredible dollop of dulce de leche. It was definitely a noteworthy dessert.

My time in Hell’s Kitchen is almost primarily bar-hopping but, without a doubt, many more visits to Palermo Argentinian Bistro are already planned for future visits to the neighborhood.

Dining amid the Feast of San Gennaro

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The Feast of San Gennaro recently took place in the Little Italy section of New York City. The annual festival, which runs along Mulberry Street, honors Saint Gennaro, a former Bishop of Benevento, Italy who was persecuted by Emperor Diocletian and martyred in the year 305 AD. Beginning in 1926 as a one-day block party, today, the event runs for 11 days along 11 blocks of street food, various vendors, carnival games, and rides.

This year, took advantage of the festival and met up with a friend to catch-up. While wandering through the event, at the corner of Mulberry Street and Broome Street, we spotted Marcellino, a restaurant founded by Marcello Assante.

“We take pride in serving delicious food made with unique love and care,” their website notes. “All our ingredients are carefully selected to ensure the highest quality and authenticity.”

Seated outside for ample people-watching, started things off with an espresso martini.

This was Lovely.

The meal was going to be a relaxed and leisurely affair, and decided to start with bruschetta. Marcellino offers a number of options and we opted for the bruschetta parma.

This is such a reliably good starter. Melted mozzarella cheese topped with some fantastic prosciutto di parma; every bite was wonderful. Next time, there will need to be a couple more of these plates to start the meal.

Moving on, there was no way I could possibly go without trying their calamari.

Crispy and delicious, with a tasty marinara sauce for dipping. This is yet another dependable starter that will always keep me happy.

Now, deciding on a main, as someone who works at an Italian restaurant, this course needed to something I wasn’t handling or looking at five days a week. Where I work, we don’t serve meat, so, went with a veal parmigiana.

The pounded, flattened, and breaded veal loin was tender and delicious—it’s been a while since I last had veal parmigiana. The dish also came with a side of spaghetti, which was a nice addition.

I rarely find myself dining in Little Italy (primarily because I typically wander down the couple blocks to Chinatown) but this was definitely an experience worth doing again.

Another visit to Raíces Argentinas

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Spent a long afternoon hopping from place to place in the Park Slope section of Brooklyn. I was preparing for a long week (got an extra shift added and worked six days). After starting by relaxing at a café, after a while, I ended up doing a bit of bar hopping at some of the familiar haunts.

After a bit, I found myself a few blocks from one of my favorite spots in the area: Raíces Argentinas, located along 5th Avenue in South Slope, between 19th and 20th Streets. I wrote about this place after first stopping in to cheer on Argentina in the 2024 Copa América, which they eventually won.

Upon entering, I was greeted with a familiar face and immediately knew this was now one of “my places.”

Took a seat at the bar and, recalling my past experiences, I knew I wanted a white sangria.

Truly, one of my favorite sangrias in all of the city. It’s refreshing with a light sweetness—if you’re not careful, this is going down like a delicious fruit juice.

Then, the menu was presented—and it was different from last time.

From empanadas to the milanesa a la napolitana—an exceptional dish—everything is always delicious. Obviously, I had to continue exploring the menu and, for dinner, went with the choripan.

A classic grilled Argentinian sausage sandwich with lettuce, tomato, a homemade criolla (a type of salsa/relish), and chimichurri on the side. Served alongside a very generous serving of fries, I could not wait to dig right in.

The choripan is such a good sandwich. It’s hearty, full of flavor, and the chorizo is delicious.

Time came to refresh my drink and, as much as I love the sangria, there was another item that caught my eye and had to give it a try: The mate-tini.

Yerba mate, vodka, and grand marnier makes a wonderful cocktail! Raíces Argentinas is just churning out winners!

Dessert wasn’t really on the radar but they do have quite a lovely panna cotta.

The classic custard dish served with raspberries and strawberries was delicious and one of the best ways to conclude the meal.

I am beyond happy to add this restaurant to one of my regular places in the city!

“Chino Latino”

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After attending an event in the Upper West Side—a neighborhood I almost never visit—I took it as an opportunity to drop by a place that had been all over my social media. “Chino Latino” restaurants, as Willa Moore explains in a September 2023 article for The Infatuation explained, “Starting in the 1960s, Chinese immigrants who came to the city via Latin America opened thriving restaurants.”

“At most Chino Latino spots, there’s a Chinese menu, a Latin menu, and a section that meets in the middle,” she wrote. “Combos like ropa vieja with fried rice, or General Tso’s chicken with fried green plantains.”

She also highlights the restaurant I had my eyes on: La Dinastia.

Located on W. 72nd Street, between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues, a few steps from the 72nd Street 1-2-3 subway station and the iconic Gray’s Papaya, the restaurant describes itself as “a NYC gem” and “one of the pioneers in bringing Chino Latino cuisine to the Big Apple.”

Walking in, there’s a bar area and, after passing through a curtain, you are greeted by the dining room, which has a nostalgic feel. I was told to sit wherever and found an ever familiar table setting, which only added to the ambiance.

As expected, the menu offered an interesting spectrum of food. After lots of exploration and giving it some thought, I placed my order and had some bread dropped off at the table.

Accompanied by a tasty green sauce (that plays a part later on), I enjoyed chewing on the buttered slices while taking in my surroundings. However, it didn’t last long because the food came out pretty quickly.

The boneless chicken crackling combination, which came with a salad and La Dinastia’s special fried rice. This was a massive platter of chicken and, while one might say, “it’s just fried chicken,” it looked incredible and smelled great.

It was piping hot and, as much as I wanted to break into that chicken, it needed a little time. Eventually, instead of going in with my hands, took a more proper approach and sliced the first piece.

This was juicy, very crispy, and delicious—one of the best fried chicken dishes ever (and it was great with the aforementioned green sauce).

I would wholeheartedly agree with something Moore mentioned in her article: “We would travel great distances and transfer trains at least three times for the boneless crackling chicken at La Dinastia.”

Also, as a testament to how huge this serving was, I took half of it home (and it was still good later).

Another great naengmyeon spot

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This blog has delved into one of my favorite foods of all time: naengmyeon. The cold Korean noodle soup is a staple for me every summer and 2024 has been no different. Last year, I wrote about the naengmyeon served at Dons Bogam, which was presented with green tea noodles. Additionally, I also penned a blog about one of the spots I frequent in Koreatown: Tosokchon.

After wandering the Boerum Hill section of Brooklyn, I recalled a restaurant I had been meaning to try for a while: Atti. Located on Livingston Street, near the corner with Hanover Place, the restaurant, while very modern-looking, describes itself as “a space that reflects the very center of the Korean soul.”

This place specializes in Korean barbecue, which is made very apparent by the meat display.

Clearly, I must come back to give it a try but, on this occasion, I was flying solo and immediately ordered a couple favorites to try.

The banchan was brought to the table and it was an exceptionally lovely presentation.

Each item was tasty, from the kimchi to the spinach to the bean sprouts, however, I must note, I’ve never been a huge fan of sweet potato puree but, at Atti, it is fantastic! Exceptionally creamy with just a great flavor that coats your mouth.

Another dish this blog has raved about on several occasions is yukhoe, or Korean beef tartare. Considering Atti is a BBQ restaurant with a wide array of meats, the yukhoe came with some expectations.

The dish was presented beautifully and, once mixed, turned out to be one of the best versions I’ve ever had! In particular, the addition of mustard seeds took it to the next level. With such a mix of flavors and textures, no future visit will be without an order of yukhoe!

Next, the star of the show arrived at the table.

I do appreciate them leaving the scissors on the table. Usually, the dish is brought and the server asks if I’d like the noodles cut but, here, they left it up to the guest (which allowed me the opportunity to take a proper “before” photo).

The lovely ball of noodles in the middle of the cold broth and topped with beef, Korean pear, pickles, and a boiled egg was such a lovely sight (even the scissors added to the aesthetic). However, it was time to get down to business.

Cut up the noodles, squirted in a good amount of vinegar and spicy mustard, and did that initial noodle pull.

This was delicious! The broth was packed with flavor, the toppings added a nice crunch, the beef was tender—everything just came together perfectly.

Like I said earlier, next time, barbecue!

Written by Paulo Loreto

September 6, 2024 at 6:14 AM

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